New Hampshire Maple syrup making – the 2012 experiment

Taps and Buckets on Maple Trees

Every since a childhood trip to a local sugar shack, I have wanted to make my own maple syrup.   A couple years ago I picked up some spiles (the taps that go in the tree).  This spring I decided I would finally make my own maple syrup.   I tapped four maples trees, purchased some plastic food grade buckets, and hung them up to collect maple sap.  I did a fair amount research in the form of reading the many how to publications, talking with some commercial producers at local sugar shacks, and watching a few educational programs on TV about maple syrup.  I had no idea how much sap my maple trees would yield nor how much work went into boiling the maple sap down into maple  syrup.  When you hear that it takes 40-50 gallons of sap to make 1 gallon of maple syrup you think, gee that’s a lot.  When you actually do it yourself you realize how colossal an amount of sap is required and that the energy and work required to produce 1 gallon of syrup makes it quite precious indeed.  This is not so much a how to post as a documentary post with notes for my next year.Maple Syrup sugaring on a wood stoveAs this was my first go at this, I used what resources I had available for my boiling down the maple sap into maple syrup.   I had a small wood cook stove that I thought would work well.   It took some figuring out how to burn the wood to keep the stove hot enough to keep the large 14″ diameter pot boiling.  I also borrowed a propane fired cook pot from my friends.   I ran both of these side by side.  I boiled off water at a rate of 2-3 Gal/hr with both running.  The propane was much easier to manage as I did not have to add wood every 30-45 minutes.  I made a heat shield later (post photos) that greatly increased the boiling efficiency of the propane unit.   Next year I think I will make a stainless steel evaporator pan that fits perfectly over the wood stove top.  This will give more surface area for evaporation and should decrease the time to boil down my sap into syrup

Finishing the maple syrup boiling process on the kitchen stove

After the bulk of the boiling was done outside I did the finishing and canning of my New Hampshire Maple Syrup in the kitchen.   I need to get a hydrometer and a better thermometer for next year.  I learned from my first batch of boiling that it is easy to over boil.   Over boiling results in sugar crystallizing and precipitating  from the syrup as “sugar sand” as your syrup cools.

I need an assistant for the canning process next year.   I will have to enlist the aid of a friend and bribe them with a jar or two of precious syrup.  It was quite hard to juggle everything during the canning process solo.   I used coffee filters in a little filter jig over each jar for filling.    Coffee filters have a very fine a pore size and blocked up rather quickly.  Coffee filters are cheap thankfully as I had to use a new filter for each jar I filled as the pores blocked up.  The smell of the boiling syrup fills the house with a wonderful warm aroma that lingers for the entire day.  I quite enjoyed the scent of maple syrup filling the house.

   

The first go around of boiling produced 25 oz of syrup from ~18 gallons of maple sap.   There were losses in the forms of minor spillage, sampling during process, filtering, etc.  I over boiled my first round and a large amount of sugar sand precipitated from it as it cooled.  My first round was capped with aluminum foil and put in the fridge for current use.  The second round of boiling I canned in small 4 and 8 oz jars for storage.  Before any friends and family ask, no there is none left for the asking this year.

first breakfast with home made New Hampshire Maple Syrup

This is my first meal I enjoyed with Zac’s New Hampshire Maple Syrup.  It was delicious.  The first run of syrup was very light and super sweet.  It was not strongly maple flavored but very enjoyable.  I have since enjoyed a breakfast that uses maple syrup on most mornings.   Food you grow or acquire yourself always tastes better and I can now say this holds doubly true for Maple Syrup you make yourself.

I’m certain I will do this again next year and suspect I will be a fair bit more serious about it.  I might build a small reverse osmosis unit using commonly available household cartridges to concentrate the sugars before boiling.  I will get some 55 gallon food grade barrels for sap storage as the 5 gallon pails are too small and you need too many of them.  I must come up with a better wood fired evaporator solution, either by building an arch from scratch or modifying my current wood cook-stove.

Ballscrew upgrade on RF45 – ZAY7045 Milling machine – Part 2

RF45 CNC machine x axis mechanism

This post continues from an early post, antibacklash ballscrew upgrade on RF45 ZAY7045 Milling machine – Part 1.  After mounting the anti-backlash ballscrew and assuring that it was as square to the table travel as I could get it, I worked on installing the end plates and then the captive support bearings a single 5202 and a single 6202 sealed Nachi bearing.

   Anti Backlash ballscrew upgrade for CNC miling machine

I cut out rough profiles of the endplates on the band saw from some 3/4″ 6061 aluminum stock I had on hand.  I used the original endplates as rough guides.   I did not machine the outer profile very carefully as I felt it was not important enough to justify the time.  I rough drilled the center hole, then marked the actual center by tracing the leadscrew.  A large endmill centered over the markings bored out the ballscrew opening.  This easily lined up the screw in the hole through the support piece.  I liked the idea of using dowel pins to maintain a fixed alignment of the end plates.  Transferring the dowel pins from the original  plates worked poorly so I  drilled and reamed new ones with over under reamers.

   

After mounting both end plates I focused on the stepper driven side as it would support the leadscrew in both an axial and radial fashion by using a 5202 double row angular contact bearing.   This end is critical as the 5202 bearing is designed to take the axial thrust loads during the operation of the cnc milling machine resulting in no backlash when changing directions.  I needed to machine a spacer for the 15 x 1.0mm bearing nut to tighten my anti-backlash ballscrew onto the 5202 bearing.  I also machined the bearing retention block.  This is just a 3/4″ thick aluminum square faced and bored to accept the 5202 bearing with 10-15 thousandths of the bearing sticking out.  The bore is machined 10 to 15 thousandths shallow so that when tightened down against the end plate the bearing will be held captive with no play in the axial direction.   Drilling and taping the bearing retaining block  in place was done very carefully by clamping down the table,  tightening the bearing hard against the end plate by turning the leadscrew, and carefully transferring, drilling, and tapping the 6mm threaded holes.   This way I was able to use the leadscrew to provide proper alignment of the bearing support block.  It required some careful hand work, but worked well in the end.

Anti Backlash ballscrew upgrade for CNC miling machine    Stepper drive mechanism with L series timing belt pulleys

As this is CNC machine version 2.0  I decided to reuse much of my original mounting mechanism for the motor.  Originally I had relied on a clamp on mount from the original x axis drive that came with the ZAY7045 mill drill from lathemaster.com.   Version 2.0 would mount off of the end plate allowing me to sell the x axis drive motor and clear up much needed shelf space in the shop .   I am using L series timing belts tensioned by a slotted slide mechanism.   Another change from version 1.2  include a reduction in pulley ratio from 1:2 to 1:1 using 10 tooth L series timing pulleys (part number A 6A 4-10DF05016) from Stock Drive Products/Sterling Instrument  allowing for much higher rapid traverse speeds.  I did have to open up the bore on the pulley to 15mm from the 0.500″ inch stock bore.

With this new ball screw the machine can move the x axis at speeds in the 30 ipm range as an upper limit.  The earlier version  had a max travel speed of only 8 IPM.  Mostly due to the motors not being able to drive the poor quality inefficient ACME leadscrew.  I plan to alter my motor configuration in the future to a direct drive set up with the motor coupled to the ballscrew via a zero backlash misalignment bushing.

Ballscrew replacement on RF45 clone CNC conversion   Anti Backlash ballscrew upgrade for CNC miling machine

The last addition to the drive mechanism is a splash shield.  I use a flood coolant system for CNC milling, making a splash shield for the drive mechanism a must.  I bent and hammered out some 0.095″ Al sheet I had handy such that all of the edges are raised except where it floods back into the milling machine table resevoir.

My work is not done on this project but this post is for now. I carefully measured the other end of the antibacklash ballscrew.  I need to have the 15mm diameter bearing area of the screw (upper right photo at the end of the screw) extended to a length 77mm from this end of the ballscrew.  This is required to mount the other support bearing (6202) and the bearing retainer onto the end plate.  This side only supports the ballscrew in the radial direction and is less critical.  I plan to leave the 15mm dia section long so I can later add either a rotary encoder and/or a manual control handle.  In order to machine the leadscrew end I need to dissassemble the entire machine yet again, carefully remove the ball nut, and find someone with a lathe who is kind enough to help me out turning it down carefully.  Sadly, my 100 year old lathe is not up to the level of concentrically I need machined.

I have driven and tested this new ballscrew setup and it is vastly superior to the original ACME leadscrew.  Higher speeds will allow for faster machining times, especially on parts that have many non cutting rapid moves, such as drilling bolt patterns.  I realize now that I should have replaced the leadscrews years ago and that I now must do the Y axis.  Likely I will measure and get started on the Y axis upgrade when I disassemble and have the x axis anti-backlash ballscrew end machined.  I hope my work helps someone with their own conversion.  I looked hard to find details on what screw would fit, where to buy one, etc. without much success.

An easy childsafe finish for wooden toys

Kid safe non toxic furniture finish

Woodworking projects for kids are a frequent item in my shop.  One of the challenges, especially on wooden toys for babies and toddlers, is how to finish and protect the wooden toy in a safe non-toxic manner.   A classic kid safe wood finish consists of mixing beeswax into mineral oil.  Both of the “ingredients” are safe and non toxic so if the little ones chew or teethe on their wooden toy there is no need to be concerned for their health.  This makes it the ideal kid safe wood finish.

Safe non-toxic furniture finish for wood working projects   Woodworking finish that is non-toxic and kid safe

The first step to make our safe non-toxic wood finish is to finely shave some of a beeswax block. Beeswax is not as common as it once was in local stores. I order mine as I use it often for woodworking but small 1oz packages are available at Ace Hardware stores still.  I shave the beeswax on a piece of kraft paper to help contain the sticky wax shavings.  This makes clean up after the project easier.   Into a single pint of mineral oil (available at most pharmacies) add a well packed slightly heaping one half cup of beeswax shavings.

safe nontoxic Woodworking finish    Beeswax and mineral oil finish for wooden toys

The next step in making the non-toxic wood finish is to pour the pint of mineral oil into a pan.  I have some heavy gauge stainless pans purchased at a yardsale that I use for project “cooking”.    Then add the packed half cup of beeswax shavings.  Using the low setting on your cooktop, slowly heat up the mixture.  Be sure to stir constantly.  It should looks like the left upper photo after you mix in your beeswax shavings.  As soon as the wax is completely dissolved remove your mixture from heat.  The solution of wax in mineral oil turns clear as in the upper right photo when it is time to remove from the heat.  You do not want to add more heat then it takes to melt all of your beeswax into the oil.

Beeswax and mineral oil finish for wooden toys      Child safe woodworking finish on baby toy

To store your child safe non-toxic wood finish, pour it while still warm into a large glass jar.   You can use the finish immediately as a warm liquid, but as it cools it turns into a soft brushable paste.   Application is very easy. Simply brush on  a liberal coating to your wood project and let the finish soak into the wood for 10 minutes.  Then buff with soft cotton cloth to remove any excess finish.  The little baby rattle toy was the purpose behind this batch of kidsafe wood finish.  The little dinosaur baby rattle is available at my etsy shop for purchase along with a fish rattle and flower rattle.   They have been kid tested and mother approved.

childsafe non toxic wood finish for wooden toys

The cooled finish is a soft brush-able paste.  If you leave it in a sunny window on a warm day it will liquify again if you prefer to use it that way.  I’ve found no discernible difference between using it as a paste or a liquid on wooden toys.  I like to let this finish sit on the toy for at least 24 hours before I buff it out to a soft natural look while removing any excess with a soft cotton cloth.

antibacklash ballscrew upgrade on RF45 ZAY7045 Milling machine – Part 1

Antibacklash ballscrew upgrade for RF45 ZAY7045 milling machine

I converted my lathemaster ZAY7045 milling machine (a RF45 clone) to 3 axis CNC about 3-4 years ago with whatever parts and materials I had on hand as a proof of concept experiment.  The CNC conversion was one of the best things I have ever done.  I instantly fell in love with CNC machining.  At the time, I made the decision to run with the original very poor ACME threaded leadscrews with their 0.100″ pitch, AKA 10 turns per inch.  My original conversion could hardly be called more than a down and dirty hack but it did work.  Several problems with my original approach became apparent.  First and foremost  among my cnc machine woes was the ridiculous backlash on the factory parts, especially on the x axis leadscrew.   I programmed and tuned anti-backlash algorithms in my control software that are quite amazing, but they only compensate for the backlash rather then remove it.  With the extensive use the CNC mill gets  the backlash had been growing worse steadily. When the backlash reached 0.047″ I decided it was time to replace the x axis ACME threaded leadscrew with a nice anti-backlash ballscrew setup.

  

A 20mm diameter ballscrew and associated ballnut were the largest that would fit under the saddle.  As is often the way with tools, bigger is better when it comes to a ballscrew and it’s load handling ability.   In this case it had to move a few hundred pounds of table, motor, vice, stock, cutting fluid, etc.  I initially wanted to stuff a 25mm diameter ballscrew under the table, but after disassembly, careful measurement showed that it would not be physically possible to use 25mm diameter ballscrews.  The new 20mm ballscrew will have a metric thread pitch of 5mm, roughly traveling twice the distance per revolution as it did with the original acme leadscrew.  This is not a problem as the CNC software I use to drive my CNC mill can easily compensate for the change in the leadscrew thread pitch.  The calculations to determine the new movement per step are basic and straightforward.

  

I don’t intend to wax poetic on the variety, quality, and types of ballscrews available. Plenty of companies offer excellent reviews of Ballscrew engineering calculations and selection criteria.  I chose to use a 20mm ballscrew with a 5mm pitch (Part #: SFU2005-C7 ) of 975  mm in length, available from kellinginc cnc. See the dimensions and specs below.

detailed specs for the SFU2005 ballscrew2005-c7-975mm ballscrew end machining drawings

Dealing with Kelling Inc. is problematic at best. I have made four separate purchases from them, and twice I have had problems.  One time they sent me the wrong part and then tried to make me use what they sent instead of what I ordered in spite of it not working for my application.  Finally though,  Kelling Inc. resolved that particular issue by sending me the part I ordered but it was a hassle to get them to do so.  With the ballscrew, my issue was that unlike other vendors they do not including the 15mm x 1.0mm nut that threads onto the ballscrew to clamp it against a 5202 double angular contact bearing.  Having used higher end ballscrews for industrial repairs and machine designs in the past experience shows that other vendors include this nut (a sub 1$ part) with their ballscrews.  Kelling inc’s answer when I called to discuss this issue was that the nut is not included, nor available for sale individually, but I could buy their fixed end bearing mount BK15-C7 (Fixed End) for  $82.95 and then get the 15mm x 1.0 mm pitch bearing retaining nut I needed. I was not about to spend $83 for a $0.87 part.   With no solution offered by Kelling Inc. I set about finding the rare and elusive 15mm bearing retaining nut.  Scouring the net and my supplier database from the day job I found an industrial supply company that would sell me a few of the 15-1.0mm bearing retaining nuts manufactured by whittet higgins, part number KM-02. I ordered my 15mmx1.0 nut from the local KAMAN Industrial Technologies office down in Manchester as they would sell to me with no minimum order fee.

    

The ballnut came pre-installed on the SFU2005 ballscrew.  It was installed flipped 180 degrees from what was needed to work with my design for my CNC milling machine.  Removing a ballnut can be a lesson in frustration and hunting for hundreds of small ball bearings on the floor if you are not careful.  The short lesson on how to correctly remove a ballnut is as follows.  Machine a removal guide that fits over your machined ends and is the same outer diameter as the minor diameter of your ballscrews threading.  For my SFU2005-C7  ballscrew this minor diameter is 18mm.  I turned down a piece of sch 40 PVC pipe on my 100 year old lathe (yup it’s on the to be replaced tool list. As an  aside, it will go to an industrial museum as a donation when I do eventually replace it with the shiny new 14×40 Lathe I have already picked out for myself).  In the right hand pic above you can see that even though I used a ballnut removal tool, I still removed it over a tray.  This is just in case something goes wrong and all of the small steel balls fall out.  Better to be safe then sorry here, so use a tray.

   Upgrading to ballscrews on a RF45 ZAY7045 mill drill

I designed the new ballnut mount  to fit the original 8mm mounting bolt holes on the saddle.  My ballnut mount design is such that there is no need to machine the ballnut. I did not want to risk contamination of the ballnuts internal raceway and bearing mechanism.   my design lowers the ballnut below the raised nut mounting boss on the saddle assembly. There is very little clearance in this set up, but it works well and does fit.   Here are technical drawings of my design: RF45 ZAY7045 mounting block for SFU2005-C7 ballscrew – sae units & in metric units   RF45 ZAY7045 mounting block for SFU2005-C7 ballscrew – metric units

As you can see in the upper left photo, I had to clip the corners of the ball nut mount.  This is not reflected in the above drawings, but you should machine the corners off the ballnut mount before disassembling your machine if you copy my design.  I did it by hand with a carbide burr and hand files.  Also note that I have not yet installed a zerk fitting into the ballnut. I hope I can find a tight M6-1.0 90 degree Zerk fitting that will fit and clear the table.  For now I plan to use grease on the ball nut.  In the future I will add a self oiling system to the CNC machine and will convert the ballnut over to oil lubrication at that time.  Oil lubrication is superior in that it tends to wash away contaminates from the ballnut rather then collect them as grease does.

That is all for part 1 of the ballscrew upgrade on my CNC milling machine. This post continues in part 2.